FAQ

 FAQ #6
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How Do I Choose and Install a Bypass System?
If you don't know much about AMSOIL Bypass Oil Filtration Systems, you might want to take a look at the following pages of our website for a little more information:

Bypass Information
Cummins Bypass Article

Also, before I go any further, if you read through these instructions and are completely lost, you may want to talk to a friend or relative who knows something about cars to see if they will install the system for you or help you with the installation. It's not all that difficult, but it's nice to have help if you're unsure of your ability to complete the job. If the person doesn't know what a bypass system is or gives you a hard time about it, send them to our website for more information.

You might also try calling around to local mechanics. You should be able to find one that would install the system for a fee if necessary.

Which System for My Vehicle?

First, you need to choose the correct system for your vehicle. There are basically two bypass systems designed for typical passenger car and light duty truck use. The first is a spin on bypass unit which mounts ONLY the bypass filter element remotely. This is the BMK-11. The second type is the dual remote system which mounts BOTH the bypass filter element AND the spin on full flow filter element in the same remote location on the same mount. This is the BMK-13.

There are also a few variations of the BMK-13 unit, which are specialized for some of our more popular markets. We offer a BMK-15ea dual remote system designed specifically for Cummins Diesel pickups such as the Dodge Ram (built PRIOR to - and NOT including - 2004), a BMK-16ea dual remote designed for the International Diesel pickups such as Ford Powerstrokes (built prior to 2003 when the 6.0L engine came out) as well as a BMK-17ea model designed for the GM Duramax Diesel engines. The installation is basically the same for these as for the BMK-13. There is also a unit designed for marine use, the BMK-18.

For Cummins built in 2004 or later, the BMK-11 is suggested with the addition of a few adapters. For Ford Powerstroke Diesels of model year 2003 and beyond (with the 6.0L engine), the BMK-11 is also the recommendation, with a specific set of adapters for ease of installation.

For engines with sump capacities greater than 20 quarts, you would be better served with a Dual-Gard Bypass system which links two bypass filter elements together on one mount. This is a BMK-12. Your spin on oil filter would then remain mounted in its standard location.

If you can use it, the dual remote system (BMK-13, 15ea, 16ea or 17ea) is much easier to install, and I highly recommend using that system over the single spin on bypass system. It also makes filter changes a snap since BOTH filters are mounted in a more convenient location. However, you do need more room for mounting the dual remote system since it mounts two large filters side by side.

Where to Mount This System?

The most common mounting locations for bypass systems are: on the wheel well inside the engine compartment, in front of the radiator, underneath the car/truck mounted to the frame, or mounted inside the wheel well itself. Other locations are possible (such as in a trunk or pickup bed), but those listed above are the most common. Depending upon your chosen location you may need to purchase extra hose to complete the installation.

The BMK-13, 15ea and 16ea and 17ea all take a 13/32" hose diameter. The BMK-11 takes a 1/4" hose. AMSOIL provides about 8 feet of high pressure hose with each kit. If you think you need more you can purchase it from AMSOIL for about $4/ft. or can purchase it from a local hardware or automotive store. Just make sure you don't buy the cheapo stuff. Make sure that it has sufficient burst pressure strength. From AMSOIL the 1/4" hose is sold by the foot with product code BP-216. The 13/32" hose is sold by the foot with product code BP-217.

A couple of things to keep in mind. If at all possible, try to mount the system so that the filters will hang straight down from the mount. Filtration is best in this position and filter removal is less messy this way as well. However, if it is necessary, as it was on my vehicle, the filter may be mounted so that it hangs on an angle. Just try to avoid anything beyond 30 degrees from vertical.

Also, the bypass filter elements are extremely well built. The outside casing is very strong and will not be easily damaged. The same is true of AMSOIL spin on full flow oil filters. You don't have to worry about them being damaged by a thrown rock, etc. Thus, mounting in the wheel well is fine. However, make certain that if mounted in the wheel well there will be clearance to turn the wheel without rubbing the bypass system. Also, if mounted underneath on the frame, be sure that it will clear the ground under all normal operating conditions.

For the dual remote system, be sure that you have a space of at least 10" x 10" x 6" for mounting the system. For the single bypass you'll need a space of at least 10" x 6" x 6" for mounting. Also, you'll want to be sure you have room to run the hoses into and out of the system. On the dual remote system both in and out hoses run from the same side of the mount. In addition, they can run from either side, so you can choose which is most convenient.

One more note before going on to the installation. Since oil analysis is necessary at each filter change, it would be a good thing to install a petcock valve for oil sampling. It is a cheap addition that will greatly simplify the sampling process.

However, I don't recommend the AMSOIL petcock valve. As well built as their bypass systems are, this is definitely a weak link in the chain. Go to your local auto parts store and get a petcock valve from them. Just make sure to take the mount in with you so that they can get you adapters to match the thread you'll need to attach to.

Now, onto the actual installation.


Single Spin-on Bypass Installation (BMK-11)

(dual remote instructions follow these - they are MUCH simpler)

Read the Directions That are Included With the Kit

The above should be the first thing you do. The instructions below will help, but are not the be-all and end-all. Make sure you read the kit instructions as well as these instruction fully. We will not be responsible for a faulty installation if you didn't read and follow the instructions fully.

Let's begin with the single bypass system. First, you'll need to drill a couple of holes for bolting the bypass mount in place. So, you need locate your mounting position and place the mount so that you can mark where the bolt holes are going to be drilled. You might want to screw the bypass filter onto the mount for positioning so that you can be sure that everything is going to fit as you expected it to. Be sure that there is AT LEAST an inch of clearance for unscrewing and removing the filter. If everything looks good, mark your holes.

Once you've got them marked (make certain that the marks are accurate for proper mounting), go ahead and drill your holes making sure that you're using a drill bit designed to drill through steel. Otherwise, an hour and three drill bits later you probably still won't be ready to bolt on the mount.

Once the holes are finished, place the mount in position and bolt it on with the supplied hardware.

Now, at this point, you're going to have to drain your oil system so you don't make a mess. If you're not sure how to do this, you should be having someone else install this system.

Now that the system is drained, you need to attach the provided adapter hardware at your oil sending unit location so that you can connect the hose which runs out of your engine and into the bypass system. This needs to be a pressurized line. That's why we use the oil sending unit location. If you don't know where this is, you might want to talk to a mechanic or service technician for a local car dealer. It won't always be in the same location on all vehicles. I would describe more fully how to connect this adapter and hose line, but the exact configuration will be different from one vehicle to another. If you are at all mechanically inclined, the instructions included with the kit should be sufficient for this purpose.

Now that you've got the line out of the engine installed, you'll need to connect it to the bypass system. Make sure that you run this line "into" the system. There is labeling on the mount to indicate which port is "in" and which is "out". Also, if you've decided to include an oil sampling petcock valve, you can connect it to this hose running out of the engine. If, for some reason, it is more convenient, you could also attach it to the line running out of the bypass system. It really does not matter one way or the other.

Once you've got the previous hose connected at both ends, it's time to install the line that runs out of the bypass system and back to your engine. Here you've got three basic options. You can either run this line down to your oil pan, or you can run it to your oil filler cap or valve cover.

If it seems at all feasible, I would recommend the oil filler cap. Either way, what you need is to drill or punch a hole large enough for the hollow bolt supplied in the kit (not too big - especially in the oil pan - it could be a real pain if the hollow bolt is too small for your hole). The hose will then connect to this hollow bolt with the adapter hardware supplied.

You CANNOT use the drain-plug hole which is already in the oil pan.

You're basically done. Once the bypass filter element is installed on the bypass mount and the AMSOIL spin on oil filter is installed in its standard location you can add your oil and run the vehicle to check for leaks. You will probably need an additional quart or two beyond the oil capacity listed in your manual because of the addition of the higher capacity AMSOIL spin on filter, the bypass filter element and the extra hose.

However, to be certain how much extra is needed, pour in only a small portion of the extra oil at a time. This way you won't over-fill the system. In addition, it is probably a good idea to fill the filters before installing them. This way only the hoses are left without oil, and they will fill quickly.

NOTE: If your vehicle is one with more than 20,000 miles or so on it, you probably should do an engine flush before you go through the bypass filter installation. That way you won't waste a bypass filter element on the flush.

Dual Remote Bypass Installation

Now the easy one. You're going to like this.

First, install the mount in a similar fashion to the single bypass system. Mark everything off, drill your holes and put in the bolts.

Now, here's the part you're going to like. Take the adapter plate supplied in the kit and screw it on where your normal spin on oil filter would generally be installed. Once that's screwed on and installed (simple procedure), connect your two hoses to this adapter plate with the supplied hardware. Then connect the two hoses to the bypass system mount making sure to match up "in" and "out" lines with the correct ports on the adapter plate and bypass mount.

Don't forget to install the petcock valve in the location specified by the instructions. Screw the bypass filter element and the full flow oil filter element onto the dual remote mount (after filling them with oil). Pour your oil into the crankcase. Start the vehicle and run it for awhile to check for leaks.

If there are no leaks, you're done! WOW! That was much easier than the single bypass system, wasn't it?
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